Olympic National Park, WA

Return · Northern Route · Stop 1

Olympic National Park, WA

West of Seattle — loop before heading east

Photo: User:Doug Dolde / CC BY-SA 3.0

Olympic is three completely different worlds in one park and the rainforest world is the one that catches people off guard. The Hoh Rain Forest doesn't feel like the United States. It feels ancient and northern European — 300-year-old Sitka spruce draped in curtains of club moss, total silence except for the river, and a green so deep and uniform it seems artificial.

Olympic contains glacier-capped peaks, the only temperate rainforest in the Lower 48, and 73 miles of wild Pacific coastline — all within one national park. The Hoh Rain Forest receives 140 inches of rain per year and contains trees that were growing when Columbus sailed. Ruby Beach on the Pacific side has sea stacks rising from the surf and tide pools full of starfish. These are not the same park.

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The moment

Walking the Hall of Mosses trail in the Hoh Rain Forest — a half-mile loop under maples so draped in club moss that the light turns green. The silence here is specific and complete. It's one of the most otherworldly places in the United States.

The classic mistake

Only doing one of Olympic's three ecosystems. If you go, do the rainforest AND the coast. They're 40 minutes apart and feel like different continents.

The photograph

Hall of Mosses trail: look for the big-leaf maple at the bend in the trail where the moss curtains are thickest and the light filters green from above. Morning light on an overcast day produces the most ethereal effect.

Skip it if

You only have a few hours. Olympic rewards time. A rushed visit to the rainforest misses what makes it extraordinary.

Don’t skip it if

You want to walk somewhere that feels genuinely primeval and unhurried.

How long do you need?

Half day: Hoh Rain Forest Hall of Mosses trail (30 min) + Ruby Beach at low tide. Full day: add Hurricane Ridge for the mountain ecosystem and views toward the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

What to ask

Ask a ranger at the Hoh Visitor Center about the 'One Square Inch of Silence' project — a spot deep in the park designated as one of the quietest places in the United States, and what it measures when jets fly over. The numbers are startling.

🌸 This season · Spring / Summer

Hoh Rain Forest is emerald green in spring. Hurricane Ridge wildflowers peak in July. Book Lake Quinault Lodge early.

Entry fee

$30/vehicle (7-day pass).

Gas

Port Angeles and Forks have gas. Very limited inside the park.

Don't miss eating

Clam chowder in a sourdough bread bowl at any restaurant in Port Angeles — if seafood works, this is the Pacific Northwest at its most iconic. If not, the First Street Haven in Port Angeles does exceptional vegetarian breakfast and lunch, beloved by locals, and is the kind of place you'd never find without someone telling you.

Websitenps.gov/olym

Average weather, all twelve months

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
High46°49°53°58°64°69°74°74°68°58°50°46°
Low33°34°37°40°45°49°53°53°49°43°37°33°
Rain/Snow14"9"8"5"3"2"1"2"4"9"15"14"

Where it is